This is the sewing tutorial of the underscarf designed by HelikaStyle.  This underscarf covers under-chin area and a neck. This underscarf has a bit enhanced pattern comparing to  underscarf “Helika” – open. Everything is the same but this one has one more detail which will cover a neck area. Let’s sew it together!

Before the start! 
And again I strictly recommend you to start from the simplest underscraf-tube and then try to sew  underscarf  “Helika” open, and then start with this kind of underscarf. You will need each of them for you hijab, so it will not be wasting of fabric, but you will get proper experience.
The sequence of steps should be already known for you.

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Underscarf pattern schema

where
1 – basic part
2 – middle part to cover area under a chin
4 – neck part

Underscarf basic part preparation

Parameters of the basic part:
а – half of the width – a head circumference multiplied by jersey extensibility factor.  For example  for head-size S head circumference is 54 cm, jersey extensibility factor can be about  0,75 , means 2*а = 54*0,78 and а = 22 cm.
b – length as you wish.  I make it about 30 cm. The more  you want to leave not covered by underscarf the less you do the length of the basic part.

Rectangle with sides a and b –  it is the palf of the besic part,  so you need to cut by putting the fabric in half. And sew with serger a edges.

Underscarf middle part preparation

The sizes of the middle part:
с – “face” line. For head-sizes S-M-L accordingly 9 – 9.5 – 10 cm (this is including seam allowance about 1 cm).
d – the width of the part. For head-sizes S-M-L accordingly about  7-7.5-8 cm and add 3 cm from side c for seam allowance
e = с-1.5 см

Again pay attention, c and e are the values of the half of the middle part.

Sew with serger lines c and e,  on the side  c fold about 3 cm and sew the edge.

And now attach middle part to the basic part.

Joining details of the underscarf

Very important here is the distance from the middle of the basic part.

It would be helpful to iron the basic part – to mark seam allowance. When I started I made 1-1.5 cm seam allowance but it is better to do it wider – 3-5 cm.

Put the basic part in half, wrong sides together. And pin the needed distance on both sides. Everything depends on the type of the jersey. For very stretching one you need to attach middle part closer to the middle. So try it one before sewing with machine.  Approximate distances for different head sized are:  S 8-9 cm, M 10-11 cm L 11-12 cm. When it fits, sew it.

It is needed to sew two lines:

1 – along line we iron before to mark seam allowance for the basic part. Seam allowance for the middle part it about 1 cm!

2 – and along the edge of the middle part.

When you check your result on the right side it has to look like this: no seams are visible.

You can think that now we need to sew basic face line but it is still too early. Before we need to attach bottom part covering a neck to the basic part.

Underscarf bottom part covering a neck sewing

The bottom part sizes (see schema in the beginning of the post):
f = a
g – about 15-20 cm,  but you can make any length which will be comfortable for your case

Cut the bottom part out and sew bottom and top with serger and sew the back seam to make the tube.

The bottom part is wider than basic part.

Put it in half and move it from the middle of the basic part for 4 cm.Pin the places where we start and finish the attaching seam – the start is in the middle of the basic part (put in half); and the end about 2 cm from middle part edge. (On the photo below the fold line is on the left)

Then sew between pins. It will be very short distance – only “two needles”

Finishing the edges

Then sew edges of the basic part and bottom part. The basic part has to be sewn along full width, but bottom part only till the end of the attaching seam

The rest of the bottom part edge sew in a way to put inside the elastic ribbon

Do not pull the ribbon too much, you need to have enough place to put the underscarf on.

And as final step you need to attach headbands.

Sewing result

 

 

Underscarf Sewing Tutorial - Covering a Neckhttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Underscarf-regular-01.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Underscarf-regular-01-195x260.jpghelikastyleLet's sew HijabUnderscarves sewing tutorialsThis is the sewing tutorial of the underscarf designed by HelikaStyle.  This underscarf covers under-chin area and a neck. This underscarf has a bit enhanced pattern comparing to  underscarf 'Helika' - open. Everything is the same but this one has one more detail which will cover a neck area. Let's sew it...DIY Empire