This is sewing tutorial for underscarf designed by HelikaStyle. This one covers minimum but also the area under your chin!
And this kind of underscarf became my favorite one. Only for the cold season I change to underscarf “Helika”- regular.
I wear underscarf “Helika” – open under the “Helika” hijab – one more exclusive model from HelikaStyle. But you can wear this underscarf also under regular scarf, khimars and even al-Amira hoods. Without scarves it looks funny, but believe me it is very comfortable and you will love it!

Before you start to study this tutorial please get familiar with simple underscarf-tube sewing fundamentals. This model has to be sewn in the same manner but with additional feature.

Read also:

Look on the picture below to understand the sewing pattern.

 


[icegram messages=”5516″] 1. This is base part – underscarf tube
a – the length of the underscarf covering a head. It can be short one about 20 cm to comer almost only forehead. And it can also be a long one even 50 cm to cove whole length of your hear. Usual standard length is 30 cm without considering seam allowances. Seam allowance can be usual 1.5 cm and then you will have only one layer covering your forehead and ears, or you can fold 10-15 cm to have double layers – to have warmer underscarf.
b – this value equals to head_measurement*extensibility_factor. According to my experience this factor can be about  0,75 до 0,85.

2.  This is important feature. Exacly this part of underscarf will cover your area under chin.
The form of it is isosceles trapezoid with width 7-7.5-8 см

с – the face line . I use the following values corresponding to head size
S 18 см, M 19 см, L 20 см
d = c-3 см
The sizes above so not include seam allowances. For the sides you need to add  1.5 cm to be folded. For the face line с it can be value 1.5 cm and more – up to 7 cm (if you want double layers).

Cut all parts of underscarf: underscarf-tube, feature and bands.

Sew face line of the featured part.

Then sew with serger (if you have this machine) other parts for feature detail and underscarf-tube face line. Next step is the most important – to attach featured details to the underscarf-tube.

The most important here is the distance to be used to sew them. When underscraf tube is fold in half I use usually the following values: S 9 cm, M 10 cm L 11 cm. Measure this value from the middle of folded in half underscarf tube along the face line. For the very elastic jersey this values could be less than I mentioned. So please try it on before sewing.

 

After this step you need to sew face line of the underscarf tube. But do this excluding feature detail edges.

And the last difficult step – you need to stitch feature detail edge to base detail edge.

And the last step is to stitch the bands.

READY!

How to sew underscarf "Helika" - openhttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Underscarf-open-16.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Underscarf-open-16-195x260.jpghelikastyleLet's sew HijabUnderscarves sewing tutorialsThis is sewing tutorial for underscarf designed by HelikaStyle. This one covers minimum but also the area under your chin! And this kind of underscarf became my favorite one. Only for the cold season I change to underscarf 'Helika'- regular. I wear underscarf 'Helika' - open under the 'Helika' hijab - one...DIY Empire