We have already tried to sew jersey khimar-niqab, small and narrow one,  with cutting along lengthwise grain.  Here we will try to create a pattern for long khimar for crepe fabric and we will sew so called by me “khimar-poncho”.

[icegram messages=”5527″] Prepare 2-2.5 meters of the fabric. How to calculate needed length of fabric please see below, it depends on length of the ready garment.  By the way I do not recommend to use jersey fabric for very long khimar models.

As we know already the base for the pattern is a triangle. The optimal choice is the 90 degrees triangle.

where
а – “face edge” –  the value depends on the head size, chosen fabric and the way of cutting. Below I give exemplary values for this parameter.
b – side edge – the length of the khimar on sides you need to measure starting from the temple till the needed length.
We need the following two parts: from part and back part. They are almost the same form but the back part has to be 20-30 cm longer,  and even much more longer if you want noticeable asymmetry.

where
с – the length of the front part, which we measure starting from the temple
d – the length of the back part,  this one can be measured starting from the vertex till needed length + 10 cm, or we can calculate it as  d=c+30cm.

One more part of the khimar pattern is a headband. This one has to be cut like we do here: click me.

When all measurements are on the table we can calculate a size of the needed piece of the fabric.
If fabric allows to cut along bias, do this. The following facts can prevent to do so: 1) if fabric has elastan in composition 2) if jersey was chosen, 3) if fabric has prints or colored in specific ways or has specific lightning; in all these cases fabric should be cun along lengthwise grain.

Please see below the way of cutting along bias:

where
h –  the width of the fabric piece, usually 140-150 cm
j – the length of the fabric piece, you will need j = 2b + 50cм

During the step #2  it is not enough just to fold fabric in half, there is a need to cut along the fold.  Khimar has to have two seams.

When you cut this ways the lengths с and d are limited. Max value for d = 1,4*(b+25)-20, approximately. But it is still enough to make pretty long khimar.

Please see below the way of cutting along lengthwise grain:

where
h –  the width of the fabric piece, usually 140-150 cm
j – the length of the fabric piece, с + b + seam allowances
If you want to make the back side much more longer than front side it is more economical to cut along lengthwise grain.

The headband it is always possible to cut from the rest of the fabric.

Let’s back to the value а.

If fabric has elastan in composition or jersey is in use then take for a 32 см (1 cm is seam allowance for each side). If you sew for yourself then by try and cut process you will be able to define the best value for you. According to my experience for head size S a=28 cm (this is without seam allowances).

If fabric is not elastic than the start value for a = 37 cm (1 cm is seam allowance for each side). A lot of thing influence the value in this case a: thickness of fabric, fluidity and cutting way we reviewed above. So it is difficult to predict strict value per head size.  Take 37 cm  try it on, if it is too big make a smaller and try it on again. Usually I take about 32-33 cm  for head size S (this is without seam allowances).

One more important note.  Please pay attention that listed values for a also depends on the width of the headband. I recommend make the width of the headband about 10-11 cm and values given above exactly for the width 10 cm (without seam allowances).

And I want to repeat again: when you sew to sell khimars please sew seams in two steps: serger and the regular sewing machine stitch. Do not use only serger or only cover-stitch machine;  when you sew with sewing machine you will give your customers possibility to adapt khimars for theirs head sizes, because sewing machine stitch can be easily removed and moved.

The pattern is ready? Let’s sew it!

Cut the back and the front part.

From the rest of fabric we need to sew khimar headband.

Hem the “face edge” а on the front part.

Sew on the headband to the back part. Mark the middle of the line а on the back side and the middle of headband, join and sew them.

Sew on  the back and the front khimar parts :

During this step when you sew first time using chosen type of fabric you will need to try on and correct the value of а .
If you sew to sell it, take approximate maximum value and seam allowances will give possibility to your clients to adapt it to theirs head sizes.

And the last step is to sew hemline.
I highly recommend to sew hemline fist via basting, then iron it and only then sew with sewing machine. This all is needed to avoid the following result:

We will follow the rules:

That is it! Congratulations! ))
This is the base pattern for many khimar models and I recommend to try it and to study it because we will back to this sewing tutorial many times.

The spread is 90 degrees.  I saw the models where front part was cut with smaller angle. But for khimar-poncho I recommend to not cut this way and do 90 degrees, this will be more comfortable.

Khimar-poncho is the model without sleeves and cuffs , so when you lift up your hand khimar will fall down on you shoulder but front part will stay as is in case you cut it with 90 degrees angle.

How to sew khimar-poncho, very long khimar.https://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/khimar-poncho-25.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/khimar-poncho-25-195x260.jpghelikastyleKhimars and jilbabs tutorialsLet's sew HijabWe have already tried to sew jersey khimar-niqab, small and narrow one,  with cutting along lengthwise grain.  Here we will try to create a pattern for long khimar for crepe fabric and we will sew so called by me 'khimar-poncho'. Prepare 2-2.5 meters of the fabric. How to calculate needed length...DIY Empire