It is highly recommended to wear pants under the wide skirts and abaya. Why? Because it is more reliable. Normally we have everything covered and for light an thin fabric it seems just underskirt is enough. But what about unusual and unexpected situations? Windy weather, when you have to run and then fell down, accidents and other cases when you cannot think about your clothes? Definitely,  pants are much more reliable.

Many sisters wear jeans, and many of us also wear so called harem pants. We sew here something in between of possible models. HelikaStyle Pants or bloomers.


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A bit of recommendations before.

It is better to sew such pants with yoke. The length of this yoke should be till the middle of the hip. This yoke works as underskirt and if it is sewn using thick elastic fabrics and done very tight, it will do figure correction in the most needed part of the body. Also such yoke will prevent flying of your abaya or skirt between your legs. The bottom part of these pants is pants itself. Bottom part should be cut in the way we sew harem pants. You can make them different form, height and width.

And I think any pants or jeans, or bloomers have to be fully covered with you clothes. FULLY! Even if you do crotch line on the ankles level it must not show up! More over on this level it will sweep the ground.
I do absolutely not like this penguins looks some sisters like to make. I am totally against it!

But this is my personal opinion.

Fabric

You can combine types of fabric. As mentioned above for yoke part you can take thick elastic fabric and for bottom part lighter fabric. I did not combine and sewed using light cotton having elastan in composition.
Fabric consumption: one length of the yoke and two lengths of the bottom part considering seam allowances  = A+2B.

The length of the yoke has to be till the middle of your hip or longer.
The length of bottom part from the yoke line to the floor. The longer you make it the more the more pants will hang over the cuffs.

Let’s cut the yoke

If we sew all parts using same piece of fabric, we need to split it into to parts – the yoke part and A and bottom part 2B.

If you have fabric with elastan in composition you can make the yoke tight. Measure your hips and just add 2 cm for seam allowances.   Halve this measurement to get value c.  If fabric is not elastic, just add 10cm.
Put the pice of fabrics we cut for the yoke as show on the picture and just cut the unneeded piece.

Bottom part

The width.  I tried to make the with of the bottom part 140 cm and also narrower. The most practical I found more narrower width because such big volume of fabric under clothes are very annoying.  More over if we do narrower bottom part we will save fabric for the legs cuffs (if your fabric has elastan in composition).

We need to prepare needed width – I cut out 30 cm from the original fabric width.

Then put it in half. And again in half as shown on the picture. You need to get 4 layer.

Now let’s cut our pants.  First of all you need to define the height of the crotch line – h.  The more transparent your clothes the less value for h has to be on your pants.

When you unfold the cut part you should get the following two details.

The legs cuffs as usual we need to sew as tubes… as usual cuffs. And now we need to sew all cut parts.

Sew the yoke with serger . I put the seam not on the back but on the side.  Then sew the belt, do not forget to leave the hole for the elastic ribbon.

Secret pocket sewing

Before sewing the belt I do make usually one more thing – I also sew a secret pocket . You know…. for some women things that sometimes have to be close at hand…. even when your bag is not with you.

This pocket  you need just sew into belt inside.

Joining all parts together

This how the yoke will look inside:

Now sew the bottom parts.

And sew the cuffs to the bottom part.

Now sew top and bottom parts together , insert elastic ribbon. In addition I put a cord.

And some beads for the good mood!

Result

Ready!

Note: beige pants are much wider than grey pants.

How to sew islamic pants? https://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/islamic_pants_01.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/islamic_pants_01-195x260.jpghelikastyleIslamic pants tutorialsLet's sew HijabIt is highly recommended to wear pants under the wide skirts and abaya. Why? Because it is more reliable. Normally we have everything covered and for light an thin fabric it seems just underskirt is enough. But what about unusual and unexpected situations? Windy weather, when you have to...DIY Empire