If you have not tried to sew any other models with us, please do so. Because we studying starting from easier models and moving to more complex. So please check existing sewing tutorials and start from the beginning.

French jibab or izdal or overhead abay, or let’s just call it khimar with sleeves. The basic pattern for it (them) is khimar-kaftan. You just need to add sleeves! Very simple!

[icegram messages=”5527″] In this sewing tutorial we will learn how to sew maxi-khimar or maxi jilbab or so called izdal. Sisters liked this one shown on the photo with color combination.  But after I tried to wear it, I have got my opinion that this models are not safe and absolutely not comfortable.  But I will explain everything on a course of sewing tutorial.

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Fabric consumption

We have separate article explaining the fabric consumption for different hijab types.

If you have already studied previous sewing tutorials, you know, that the basic formula two length A plus 30 cm, where A  is the desired length of the khimar from the front measured from the temple. In so doing, you will get the back side longer than the front side of the khimar.

But when you sew maxi khimar, floor-length khimar, you can do also the same, if you do not mind, to sweep pavement with your clothes. I know for sure that plus 30 cm is too much, but exact raise value I cannot tell you. You know why? Everything depends on a hairdo you have. Yep. If you do not do not put your hair in bun, but let hair hang down in back, it would be enough to have +10 instead of +30cm. Otherwise you will need more.

But somehow, in seeking an even hem, we are getting small disadvantage – when you tilt your head forward hem of the khimar from the back side rides up. And this is very annoying for me. This is one of the reasons why I prefer middle length jilbabs having major asymmetry – back side much longer than front side, and in this case when you tilt you head no difference is noticed.

As summary, for those, who still want to have floor-length khimar, you will need a piece of fabric with length = 2*A + 20cm (width = 140-150cm).

Which fabric to choose for izdal

For maxi khimar you definitely need light fabric! Light, soft and easy drapery fabric. The bigger fabric consumption the more weight will have khimar, the more often it slides off.

But lighter fabric more transparent…. So you anyway will need to put under such khimar a dress or skirt, or islamic wide pants on …


You should go back and study the pattern of the khimar kaftan. It is useless to repeat it again. So just start from that model and then from the rest of fabric just cut sleeves.

About the bottom hem line

Some details about pattern reviewed we above.  For the floor-length khimar we need the hemline without asymmetry, it is not needed that it will lay on the floor neither from the back, no from sides.

Remember, that we never do straight bottom hem line when we sew dress or skirt? We always do it curved. This is done to not let the garment to hang from sides.  Same for floor-length khimar (or overhead abaya).

The wider khimar, the more we cut on sides!

But due to for such khimar the part of the sleeves, the bodice and anything else is one piece of fabric, when you raise your hands, khimar shows everything what you have under it. That is  why you anyway need to put on the skirt or dress under it. And even very long sleeves, which theoretically could prevent this, still will not help in all cases. Thus the floor-length will not get rid of the multi-layering.

As option, you can do the bottom hem line not so wide, and only about 75 cm. This will create the “butterfly” form, and you will not nee to cut a lot from sides.

The feature of my khimar is color combination.  I did it only because of lack of red fabric…but result inspired many of you.

Khimar details photo

Here is the results of my cutting:

Do not do it like I did.  Especially is you are beginner in sewing. Before cutting fabric has to be ironed!  You should never cut wrinkled fabric. Do not forget about pre-washing if it is allowed for the fabric type.


About sleeves… I got some (most probably) correct comments concerning sleeves width. Narrow sleeves show the form of the arms. But if you have to work in khimar/jilbab, and you have to work in place where wide sleeve affects your job or even contradicts safe working conditions, I suppose to have narrow sleeve would be better than show off the arm itself. And Allah knows the best.

If you make the value  b longer (see the pattern of khimar-kaftan), then you will be able to use whole sleeve length when working, this will hold khimar,  and when you go out you will be able to gather the sleeves into cuffs and khimar will hide and cover your arm form.

Khimar sewing

I made a headband (we know already how, if you do not know please see other sewing tutorials, for easier models). Back-side decoration  and basic parts ware joined and head-band was attached to the back side. Then I sewed back and front sides (sew front face line before). So all steps are the same like for khimar-kaftan, but when you sew sides of the khimar you need to leave slits only for sleeves and not so big as we do in case of khimar-kaftan. Make several folds on the back details or do not make, as you wish.  Then attach prepared sleeves. And then try it on and check the hem line. Cut it if needed and when it fits, stitch it.

Result (izdal photo)


Izdal or Maxi Jilbab With Sleeves Sewing Tutorialhttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Maxi-french-jilbab-15.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Maxi-french-jilbab-15-195x260.jpghelikastyleKhimars and jilbabs tutorialsLet's sew HijabIf you have not tried to sew any other models with us, please do so. Because we studying starting from easier models and moving to more complex. So please check existing sewing tutorials and start from the beginning. French jibab or izdal or overhead abay, or let's just call it...DIY Empire