Who is following our khimar sewing series, those are able to sew already almost everything!  You just need to apply fantasy on your knowledge and then you will design plenty of possible hijab models!

Here, on this page, we sew khimar-kaftan.
This is very comfortable model of the so called “French jilbabs”. You can make it any length, and wear on the abaya or outwear.  It is comfortable for your hand movements. And it became very popular among sisters.


[icegram messages=”5527″] We start from the pattern, we should learn how to built it using khimar base pattern. By the way, you need to study this sewing tutorial, if you missed it, to understand the base pattern: click me.

So, we know already khimar-poncho, it has long sides, fully covering the hands. From time to time it can disturb and there is a need to open the hands.  One of the possible solutions we tried and made khimar-cape.  But khimar-kaftan will change the form of your dress and will give you possibility to make it any length , even floor-length, very easily.  More over this pattern is the base for creation more complex models.

We will change the base khimar patter in the following way – see pictures below.  We need to cut unnecessary parts from the sides and that is it! After doing this, you will just need to align the bottom lines.

If you do simply like shown on the schemas, khimar will have some shortcomings. I know, because I tried it! I did many experiments and found one way to avoid them. So let’s start to sew!

First we make the pattern.

where
а – face line – depends on the head size and chosen fabric type. Make it about 17-18 cm – this is maximum value you may need (when head-band width is 10 cm)
b – sides line – the length of the khimar from sides, measure it starting from your temple along the hand till needed length. You need to draw this line with 45 degree angle relating to line с
с – the length of the khimar from the front side, measure the length starting from your temple till needed length –  this line is the fold line of the khimar front part
g –  the half of the khimar width

The lengths b and  depend on each other:  the more you want to cover the hand, the wider khimar will become.

Important note:  the wider you make the khimar,  the more roundish line b has to be,  see on the photos below!

The bottom line (hem line) you can make roundish, or make it figured or gather it, etc. We will do it in the next sewing tutorials, but I have to warn you, all this kind of designing will not suit slim sisters. This I also know from my experience.

The cutting.
We need to cut this kind of khimar along lengthwise grain! You can do it along bias, but this will limit the possible khimar width.

The fabrics has to be soft and light enough but not transparent.
You will need a piece of fabric with length  = 2*с+30 cm. These 30 cm we discussed already in previous sewing tutorials.

Fold whole piece in half along lengthwise grain

First we cut using created above pattern. Put it along the folded line and cut.

Then using the rest of the fabric piece and same patter cut the back side. I do it as shown on the picture:

The pattern has to be placed at an angle to the fabric fold line.  The more dress-size you wear the bigger angle has to be used.

On the picture above :
d = c + 30 cm
e – is delta we need to add to the back part – special HelikaStyle feature – I do then about 3 pleats using this delta and this gives special look to the khimar back side.  For 3 pleats you will need about 18 cm. But you also can skip this, if you do not need this feature.

This kind of cutting for the back part is necessary to align it to the front part. Combination of this angle and pleats give very pretty solution for khimras with middle length.

From the rest of fabric cut the headband – details see also here: click me .

Here what I got.  The left picture – the front side, the right picture – the back side. Pay attention on the sleeve line!

 

If you have enough fabric left you can cut headband as 1-piece. Or you can cut 3 pieces – the middle part and two bands .

Sew the front part’s face line. And sew the headband on the back side.

Now you should join front and back parts. Do it like shown below:

Put them together face to face and align sleeve lines (blue and green). Sew them in the way to leave the width  k between seams, which will correspond to your head-size.  Each kind of fabric will require different value for k for the same head-size, so you need to start and try it on before the use of sewing machine.  Start from the value = 34 cm.

Then you should sew both sides, but not fully. You should leave slits having width  m – chose any value which will suit you. If you add addition length e for pleats, do not forget to make them before starting to sew!

Then sew the hem line!

It is ready!

 

Khimar-kaftan pattern. One more khimar with slits for the handshttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMAGE_116D04BC-75CE-4399-8BD1-9FFC7D01A036-1-768x1024.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/IMAGE_116D04BC-75CE-4399-8BD1-9FFC7D01A036-1-195x260.jpghelikastyleKhimars and jilbabs tutorialsLet's sew HijabWho is following our khimar sewing series, those are able to sew already almost everything!  You just need to apply fantasy on your knowledge and then you will design plenty of possible hijab models! Here, on this page, we sew khimar-kaftan. This is very comfortable model of the so called 'French...DIY Empire