How to sew underscarf “Helika” – triangle.
I named this type of under-scarf “Underscarf Triangle”, because it makes triangles on your cheeks. The name came from my sisters who love and need these triangles very much.
This under-scarf covers chin itself. And should be used for loosed hijab styles or for khimars and izdals having a hole under the face. Back side of the head is still open to provide you possibility to put hairs down and for better ventilation of the head ;-).
Read about all HelikaStyle underscarve here: click me.
I will give you under-scarf measurement for three head sized S, M, L. But as we already know (I mean all readers of this blog ))) extensibility factor still exists and it can be different for different types of jersey. So when you sew this garment first time just don’t forget to try it on before applying sewing machine and make adjustments if needed.
NOTE: Who fist time visits this site please review the following publications:
You need a a piece of jersey, 25-30 cm (140 cm width). It is better to use cotton or viscose jersey having 5-8% elastane. You need regular not elastic fabrics for the bends 5-8 см. And you need an elastic ribbon 4-6 cm length and 1 cm width.
You need to cut 4 components:
All components are put in half on the picture!
1 – Forehead part. Absolutely the same as we do for underscarf-tube.
a – the length of it, about 25-30cm.
b – the width of it. You need to calculate it based on your head measurement multiplied by extensibility factor. This value has to be divided by 2.
2 и 3 – together they form bottom part of the under-scarf. I will call it “skirt”. 3 – front side of this skirt, 2 – back part.
с – the length of the skirt, also about 25-30 cm
d+e – has to be greater than b. This is because this skirt we sew with elastic ribbon inside. When we put elastic ribbon inside, the width of the skirt will be almost equal to b, possibly a bit less. The ribbon we need to simplify “putting on” process and to not stretch every time the fabric.
d has to be less than e.
It has to be something like d=(b/2)-2; e=(b/2)+3 ;
4 – bands, made with not elastic fabric, see here details: click me.
Who is too lazy to understand formulas please use the following measurement – but remember, I use these values for high quality viscose jersey with 5-6% elastane. New type of fabric could need adjustments of these values.
|b||23 cm||24 cm||25 cm|
|d||9.5 cm||9.5 cm||11 cm|
|e||15 cm||16.5 cm||16.5 cm|
All what we cut have to be sewn in the following way:
First make the easiest part – make the bands!
The length about 35 cm, the width about 5-8 cm
Take forehead part and sew with serger top and bottom lines.
Sew the “skirt” and also make serger sewing for top and bottom line of it.
On this step the easiest part of the work is done.
Now we need to sew forehead part and this “skirt”. Wider part of the skirt is the front one covering your chin.
On the forehead part mark (with pin for instance) distance (b/2)-1 сm – measure from the left side. This is a place where we join our parts.
On the picture below the pin is marking the middle.
On the picture below I moved the pin to the middle to get distance = (b/2)-1 сm. Or just calculate this value.
On the bottom part mark the middle of the front side:
Place bottom and top parts in the following way:
Use pins we put before on the front part to join top and bottom parts:
Thus the distance between pins on the top part will be 2 cm greater than on the bottom part.
Then sew starting from pins towards “skirt” sides seams.
Now sew top part edge. And bottom part edge till “skirt” side seams.
One important point. This place of joining tip and bottom parts will be always overloaded. Exactly here underscarf forms triangles on the cheeks. So we need to fix it. Make an additional seam in a way shown on the picture below. 1 mm from edge, about 1 cm of length. As result we should fix together 4 layers of fabric.
Back side’s edge of the “skirt” has to be sewn in a way to put inside elastic ribbon afterwords.
The length of the elastic ribbon has to make the width of your “skirt” the same as forehead part width. Put elastic ribbon in the prepared place for it and sew from both its sides to fix it.
Last thing is to sew band. Make this in a way shown on the picture. In the same way like we do it for simple underscarf: click me.
https://helikastyle-empire.com/en/diy-underscarf-triangle-en/How to sew underscarf "Helika" - triangle.https://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Underscarf-reiangle-02-768x1024.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Underscarf-reiangle-02-195x260.jpgLet's sew HijabUnderscarves sewing tutorialsI named this type of under-scarf 'Underscarf Triangle', because it makes triangles on your cheeks. The name came from my sisters who love and need these triangles very much. This under-scarf covers chin itself. And should be used for loosed hijab styles or for khimars and izdals having a hole under...helikastyle email@example.comAdministratorHelikaStyle ✃