Only general steps are described here to be done to get bodice (without darts) pattern. This will help you to understand the technology of the sewing pattern drafting, not more. There are no formulas or detailed description for each step, as the goal is only to get you familiar with the process. To know more, you will need to learn one or several schools of the sewing and patterns drafting.

But if you do not want to study a lot, HelikaStyle is preparing special publication series with patterns for different garments. You will be able to draft quickly any pattern for you size using already calculated values and dimensions.

So to start to draw the bodice pattern you usually need to measure or calculate the following values:

  • Bu – bust circumference
  • Tu – bust circumference
  • Ad – armhole width
  • Rl – nape to waist
  • Rh – armhole depth
  • Ht – hips hight
  • Rb – back width
  • Bb – bust width
  • Hs – back neck width
  • VI II – front side waist length without Hs

How to take and calculated these measurements please read here: click me.

When you measure yourself check the following formula:Rb+Ad+Bb = 0,5*Bu. If this is not true in your case, do measurement again, or take only calculated values.

The pattern is being made from the left side to the right, and left side of the patter is the back.

Note: You will often meet  definition “ease” below in the description – it is 0,5-4 cm,  which has to be added to the measurements to provide to the future garment  wearing ease, a bit of freedom for the body movements. The value of the “ease” depends on the garment you plan to sew and the type of fabric. The ‘ease’ values in different pattern’s places depend on each other and it is important to use correct values to keep the proportion of the pattern.

Draw a vertical line  1-4.  And mark on this line points 2 and 3, where
1-2  –  Rh  – armhole depth + ease
1-3 – Rl – nape to waist
1-4 – Ht –  hips hight
Then draw horizontal lines to the point 1,2,3,4.
Mark the point 5 on the horizontal line from point 4. The distance 4-5 has to be 2 cm.
Join points 1 and 5 with straight line.
Mark points 7 and 6 –  points where the line 1 and 5 intersects horizontal lines drawn before.
On the horizontal line starting from point 2 mark the points  8, 9, 10 and 11, where
7-8  – Rb – back width + ease
8-9 – 2/3Ad  – two-thirds of the armhole width+ ease
9-10  – 1.3Ad – one-thirds of the armhole width+ ease
10-11 – Bb – bust width+ ease
The distanceе 7-11 has to be equal to the half of the bust circumference plus all ease-values which were added.
Draw the perpendicular through the point 11.  We will get also points 12 and 13. See picture below.
 
On the horizontal line starting in point 1 mark the point 14, where distance 1-14 has to be equal to the back neck width (Hs).
Draw the perpendicular with the foot in point 14 and mark the point 15 on it, where the distance 14-15 equal to 2 cm.
Join points 1 and 15 with shallow curve, to get the back-neck line.
Draw the perpendicular with the foot in point 8 and get the point 16 – the point where new line intersects the line starting in point 1.  Mark the point 17 on the line 8-16  where the length of the line segment 16-17 equal 1 or 1.5 cm.
Draw the line through point 15 and 17 and mark the point 18 on this line, where the line segment 17-18  equal to 3 or 4 cm. This is shoulder line. The length of the shoulder line has to be corrected or adapted on the ready pattern.
Bisect the line segment 8-17 bisect and draw to the left perpendicular line segment with the length 1.5 or 2 cm. The bottom part of the partition bisect again and draw one more perpendicular line segment with the length 1.5 or 2 cm. The last line segment has to be used as control point of the sleeve stitching if applicable.
Starting from the point 10 draw perpendicular and mark the point 19. The distance 10-19 has to be equal to the distance 8-17 plus 1 cm.
Starting from the point 12 to the up measure the value of the  VI II (Front side waist length without Hs – calculated value), mark the point 20.  For the bodies with small bust circumference deduct 1 cm from the value.
From the point 20 draw perpendicular to the right, and mark the distance with the length equal to Hs (back neck width) + 0,5 см – get point 21.
Mark point 22, where the distance 20-22 is equal to  Hs (back neck width) plus 1.5 or 2 cm. See picture below.
 Join point 20 and 21 to get extra line.  And on this additional line starting from the point 20 mark additional point on the distance equal to Hs (back neck width) plus 0,7 or 1 см.
Through this additional point and points 22 and 21 draw the front side neck line.
Starting from the point  19 draw the arc to the right side, use the circle drawing techniques with semidiameter length equal to the distance  10-19 with center in the point 10.
Draw the line segment 21-23 with the length equal to the length 15-18 minus 0,5 cm. The point 23 has to be the intersection point with the arc.
On the line 10-19, starting from the point 10 mark the distance 0.25*Ad (armhole width). This point will be control point of the sleeve stitching on the front side.
Draw the armhole line starting from the point 23 till 18, through control points of the sleeve stitching. See the schema below.
Now it is needed to move shoulder line 1 cm down on the front and 1 cm up on the back side.
Highlight the resulting ouline.

As this is only basic pattern,  it is not necessary to draw it till the hip line. By lengthening and modeling and by increasing the values of the wearing ease this pattern can be used as the base to create the final patterns for the t-shirts, blouses, shirts and dresses and even coats.

 

Basic pattern drafting - without dartshttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Base-pattern-1-01-768x1024.jpghttps://helikastyle-empire.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Base-pattern-1-01-195x260.jpghelikastyleSewing patternsOnly general steps are described here to be done to get bodice (without darts) pattern. This will help you to understand the technology of the sewing pattern drafting, not more. There are no formulas or detailed description for each step, as the goal is only to get you familiar...DIY Empire